I got a chance to bake the Fimo stuff I made yesterday. I did discover that there is an Urban Dictionary page for Fimo, of which more later.
To be honest I wasn't expecting much. Over the years I have played about with Fimo a few times and never really been all that interested in it. The only project that I liked were some figures I did for Low Life. This suited my sculpting style (i.e. not very good) as the miniatures are somewhat cartoony. If this was what I wanted for another game, then I would have no problem going for it.
My initial results were about where I expected. The stuff does not solidify in the mould like green stuff. My normal approach is just to cover the thing I am moulding with a fair chunk of Instamould. This makes it even more difficult to get the model out. The idea that I had was to put lots of little bits of the plastic over the model. If you wait for each chunk to go cold, the mould breaks apart easier. What I did need to do was add another layer over the top to keep the bits together. In hindsight gluing the miniatures to the base was probably a mistake although it would probably work out well for green stuff. That said, with green stuff drying hard, the integral base isn't required.
As I said earlier, I wasn't expecting much. The final results are a little better than I expected but I did start out with a really low level of expectation. Would I use it for feature figures, well no. For what I have used it for, the results are good enough. There is about £1.20's worth of Fimo here so it's cheap enough for the miniatures but the craters, I am not so sure. There is some detail there.
here and there. They give the RPG tabletop some more realism that usings a wash wipe marker. Most GMs just take figures off the table but I think there should be something left behind, even if it is only a minor obstacle. In the past I have just given casualty figures a very simple grey tone for 28mm figures, mainly for speed but the players seemed to like the "passed over to the other side" look.